Monday, 27 January 2014

The countdown has begun...

The countdown is most certainly on!

Four weeks today and Lewis and I are returning to the land of adventure, snow, grizzly bears and cougars! We are so excited!

We cannot help but look ahead at the prospect of all the unknown possibilities in Canada, however everything we have to do from now until then is a little bit more overwhelming.

As mentioned in our little blurb we have begun selling things. My climbing shoes, uni books, guitars, sound systems and anything else we feel may be worth a little buck or two. Turns out there isn't that much, particularly when I feel charities are so much more worthy to donate items towards.

Insurance has mind-boggled me today as we have been told we need Health Insurance for the first 3 months we are in Canada and insurance to cover any travel costs. I had a 48 hour mind-block and believed we needed to buy both Travel and Health Insurance (which was definitely not cheap)...yet  low and behold we do not. Or at least that is what I now think and I have talked myself round in circles. At this point in time it is not difficult.

World Nomads insurance seems to be the best for exactly what we want to do, and to make life easier we can add skiing on if and when we wish to adventure into the snowy wilderness!

Now, what did I do with all that packing enthusiasm I had earlier....

Sunday, 12 January 2014

Great Galle

What can we say about Galle?

To get to this idyllic place, we took another bus (this one had a man with very hairy ears) and got off in the centre of New Town Galle. A hubbub of people, noise and pushing. I had a fleeting 'oh sh** a mini India' thought but it quickly vanished with the appearance of a friendly tuk-tuk driver who whisked us away behind the Fort walls.


Behind the Fort walls was like entering another city, country, even continent. Originally built by the Dutch, the Sri Lankans have kept many of their features, from the brick used for the houses to the old style buildings and small alleyways. It was delightful and very much like a little area of Amsterdam.

We had not booked anywhere as this leg of the trip was not planned and by sheer luck we found the BEST place to stay in Galle. It was a small boutique hotel with views overlooking the sea and a stunning balcony which we could sit out on. Fort de 19 was a haven.


Family run, we met the owner and his parents - I took a particular shine to his father as he was always sitting near the entrance ready to greet you upon arrival and welcomed you back after a very hard day strolling around the cobbled streets. He also called me 'laughing girl' which I adored and made me laugh more. Who says flattery gets your nowhere?!
They made us feel extremely welcome, and after the disaster of the hostel in Mirissa both Lew and I were sick, so Theekshana's (the owner) mum made us a Sri Lankan flu remedy to make us feel better, which I think actually worked.

Galle was stunning and peaceful and was the perfect end to our fleeting visit to Sri Lanka. I managed to even buy a little piece of jewellery as a souvenir... one can't go to a place with a place named 'Gem City' and not buy a gem.


Everyone we came across was extremely welcoming and kind. Even random 'accosters' I previously mentioned didn't accost, they merely wanted to know where in Sri Lanka we were travelling, where we were from and to wish us a great holiday.

Love is barely the word to describe such a vibrant, varying island. It has everything and more.

Along the coast of the big blue to see the Big Blue

From our nook in our beachy heaven, we travelled by tuk-tu
k and then meditation bus (the music resembled that of a temple and I wondered how the driver stayed awake) to Mirissa, the home of the Big Blue Whale excursions.

The hostel was an epic fail, lets just clarify that now. Epic. Fail.
Lew got a bad chest infection from the damp and I got the flu. All because it was a damp, dank, dark cave. We were fools, but who cares, as we got a hilarious story in the location.

We decided to go and see the whales with Raj and the Whales, a very environmentally sound and rational guy (he threatened people who litter with death by drowning and no-one was to ask him to get closer to the whales as 'how would you like someone creeping up on you in your home?!')

So Lew, myself and 30 other unprepared passengers pile onto this lovely little boat. It was lovely for about 20minutes until the first 'sailor' fell ill. The poor Aussi guy, who I can only hope was somewhat hungover, made his way to the back of the boat to relieve himself of his severe nausea.
This was followed by a mother on the upper deck - her baby girl was carried down by a crew member - followed by the grandmother, who was just as green.

One by one, the sea weary were picked off and Lew was one of them. Only, he can make friends while being sick, as he and a German guy decided to console each other, pat each other on the back and discuss strategic locations for their gaze to fall upon to ease their suffering. Yet, unknown to them, their pain was to continue for another four hours.

By this point the Australian was lying down, no doubt passed out from diaphragm exhaustion, only to be sharply awoken by a crew member when the lovely blue whales came into view. The Aussi was yanked by the sides of his life jacket and almost carried to the starboard deck to see the beautiful mammals gently swim through the rocky waters. This was seemingly all to much for the chap as he quickly twitched a nod and backward stumbled to the opposite deck to continue what he had been doing for the past four hours. By doing so he joined Lew and Co. for the remainder of the trip and I couldn't help feel somewhat amused at the line of men trying to look alive.

The whales were amazing, I saw them all from my safe location curled up in the back corner of the boat. Sick people do not agree with me, if I see someone being sick I tend to join in for fun.
They (the whales, not the sick men) were such glorious, graceful animals that were so much bigger than I could have imagined. I will never be so thankful to the crew member who took my camera and took a multitude of photos and videos of them, because if it were not for him I would have nothing to show for the trip. Nor would Lew.


On the way back after seeing the whales we saw hundreds of dolphins, working together with the local tuna fisherman to catch some fish, it was fantastic. It was all old line technique that meant no dolphins would be harmed.


It only took another five hours for us to feel somewhat human again and for Lew to start chatting. Apparently sea sickness also impairs his conversation skills.

Due to the epic fail of our hostel in Mirissa we decided to move on to pastures new which took us to our final destination...

Ella, oil and the little place along the road from Matara

A little tired and exhausted, we arrive in Ella after our trek up Sri Pada and a four hour train journey from Hatton, during which we stood the entire way.


The skies had opened and it was torrential rain by the time we arrived and due to the exhaustion of constant travel and the random hours our bodies were functioning, we just wanted to move on to sunnier climates. So we decided during our early-bird dinner (a whopping 5.30pm) we were going to catch another crazy bus to Matara, the home of beaches and sunshine.

Unfortunately it was just our luck that is was the biggest Poya of the season and all schools and work were on holiday which meant everyone, including the locals, were hoping to get the same bus.

By this point, unsurprisingly we just wanted to sleep and found ourselves a cheap little hostel under a restaurant where we effectively went to sleep at 7pm and woke at 7am just in time for our bus to the next location.

The bus journey was at least five hours, or there abouts. Do not let Google maps tell you otherwise. Sri Lanka takes longer to get around than one would expect.

I managed to get a seat at the back of the bus with an open window to feel the breeze on my face... It wasn't until two hours later Lew mentioned I had a black eyebrow and how odd that was, that I scraped my finger along the left of my face peeling off a layer of oil slick from my skin did I realise why I felt 'radiant'.... epic. I have never before experienced such pollution directly to my face. I guess it serves me right for trying to stay reasonably cool while travelling.

As we flew past stunning scenery and national parks we enjoyed chatting to the locals and some fellow travellers who were looking for the sun that we all had missed the previous day.

Instead of staying in Matara, we moved to a little place which is just a 200 LKR tuk-tuk ride out of town, which is a delightful, out-of-the-way nook in the coast that you can just completely chill out in.

We absolutely loved this little place, so much so I cannot remember the name of it....

Sri Pada Pilgrimage

The bus journey alone to get here was an adventure with gangster hip-hop music playing the entire way. The buses are all 'self-styled' by their owners to make them, what I can only assume, more appealing to get on. Don't get me wrong, they are amazing and so much better what you get in the UK.

We arrived in Dalhousie after being blasted by many passing fumes and realise there is very little to do other than climb a 2,500m mountain. So at 2am (yes in the morning) we set off to conquer this climb. This may be business as usual for my winter/rock exploring partner but for me it was all new territory.

With a bulky torch in hand we set off, all the while Lew is whispering "I hope we don't get mugged." Nice. Really puts my mind at ease.
Anyway, off I trot and start humming to sooth my worries and we make it to the base of the never ending stairs. If you do this climb you will know exactly what I mean.
Buddha bless the monks who actually built the stairs all the way to the top, as there is not a slope in sight. Stair Master 2000 has a competitor.



I have no idea if it was a mix between the random time of night by body was being exerted, lack of food or water, or the torch swinging with every step but my giddy-aunt did I get nauseous. Luckily for me, my partner in life is a moment-entrepreneur and decided to utilise my 'still dark moments' to do some night photography.

Two hours, two water bottles, a torch battery and many pit-stops later, we arrive at the peak of Sri Pada - the great Buddha's footprint. As it was 4am by this point there was very little to see other than a few twinkling house lights but by 5.45 the sun was starting to come up and WOW was it stunning. We got every colour of the rainbow in the sky and it only kept changing.

We were above the clouds, the sun, the forest and it was just so... simple? Is this peace?

We stayed for over two hours at the top as every minute we looked at the horizon the colours and clouds had changed and it was a new image to imprint in our memories or for the sake of good documentation our SD cards.

Gangster Lewis and myself admiring the sunrise

It was phenomenal, and what is surprising is my legs maintained their strength all the way to the bottom. Thank you Pilates.

Instead of staying in this little town for another night we got onto another hip-hop bus (there are Sri Lankan national buses and general pop too from our experience) to take us to Ella.

And that is when the rain began.

Sri Lanka - Paradise is real

What can I say, we have become pro jet-setters in the past few months!

A mere ten days after our Vancouver trip Lew and I were back on the plane - thankfully this one with much better leg room, thank you Emirates - to Colombo, Sri Lanka.

By our first accoster
Firstly, can I just say that my rucksack was smaller than Lew's. This is a phenomenal feat on my part, as I have been known in the past to over-pack. Shocking I know.

We arrived in Colombo at 8 in the morning after travelling for over 28 hours. I managed to prioritise movies over sleep on the flight and so arrived looking like a startled baby owl wondering why on earth the sun was shining and where the heat was coming from.
We were staying our first day in Mt Lavinia, about 30 minutes from the centre of Colombo and right next to the beach which worked very much in my startled-state's favour. Stumbling upon the beach to try and stay awake we were accosted by an Australian-Sri Lankan, our first of many friendly accosters, that offered to take a picture of both of us.


We then made our way - via a super train journey - to Kandy. What a stunning place filled with crazy tuk-tuk drivers and the Scared Tooth Relic. We had a delightful two days here, wandering the streets and meeting the self-named 'dream team' that had all been on our flight to Colombo from Dubai. Unfortunately our accommodation was atrocious but never dwell on the negatives huh?


After Kandy we went to Nawalapitya, the central location for growing tea. We stayed on Greenwoods tea plantation in their luxury villa and were the only ones there for several days, which I certainly will not complain about. We were pampered and well looked after by Rowan and the team, from private walking tours around the hills where we got leeches, Lewis more so than me, to taking the bosses car to visit the stunning local waterfall. The food was amazing and the smoothies were even better, the part we loved most was them telling us the watermelon wouldn't be ripe for another week. Everything was so fresh we were in heaven!


From here we moved on to Dalhousie, the base for Sri Pada and what would be an epic walk for me and an easy going morning stroll for Lew.

Our next challenge: reach the summit of Sri Pada.

Vrooming Through Vancouver

Holy cow it has been a crazy few months!! I guess the fun and the surprises are just beginning!

Towards the end of November, Lew and I set out on the very first jet-set of our adventures. We flew into Vancouver for a long weekend... from London...
It is safe to say the flight was almost as long as our stay but my goodness it was worth it!

We landed in the chilly land of maple syrup and maple leaves and just about fell in love (as was hoped) from the get go. From the waterfall to the jellyfish floating past us in the airport we were welcomed by all - even the immigration officers who we had been told to fear.

Hop, skip and a sky train later we arrived in Downtown Vancouver. Oooft. Hello big glass buildings and Gucci store! We tottered for ten minutes and arrived on the doorstep of our hotel - The Empire Landmark Hotel and we were in luck, as we got a gorgeous balcony room on the 32nd floor with stunning views over Stanley Park and the west coast.

Over the three short, but glorious sunshine days, we managed to cram a lot in and tried our hardest not to let jetlag set in- although I did attempt to get Lew to have meaningful conversations at 4.30 in the morning with me as I was failing to keep jetlag at bay. Seems his sleep talking is really coming on leaps and bounds as he doesn't remember a thing about it.

Downtown is fantastic and we strolled around Stanley Park while there was a half marathon going on. We were thrilled with how sporty and outgoing everyone was, we cannot wait to get super fit and take to their lifestyle!

Of course we did the tourist thing and did a lovely hop-on hop-off tour with the Vancouver Trolley Company with two of the funniest guys we have heard. Not only did they tell us some fascinating details about the history of Vancouver we also got an insight into the hilarious gossip we may become interested in.

As with all trips they are over too quickly, but we can be very thankful that this was just a little teaser session... we are returning in February for the first 5 month stint.

I am so excited, I know Lew is too, but I am almost bursting with anticipation and cannot wait to just get up and go.

In the meantime we must sort health insurance, pack our belongings, give old stuff to charity, cancel direct debits, set up Canadian bank accounts, buy a car, apply for an international driving permit, sort flights..... and the list goes on.

But my goodness, am I raring to go.